I just returned from Altay, and even before unpacking my suitcase, I knew I had to write this guide. Because winter Altay is not the kind of place you simply “visit”—it’s a place that stays with you.
If you are planning a trip or hesitating whether it’s worth going, save this guide first. It will answer almost every practical question you might have.
1. Why Winter Altay Is Worth the Trip
Altay in winter feels like another dimension:
snow-coated forests, wooden cabins in silent valleys, transparent air, and a kind of quiet beauty that slows your heartbeat. Unlike the busy summer season, winter brings back the original serenity of Hemu and Kanas.
It’s also one of the best seasons to experience the real “snow country.” Everything feels fresh, bright, and peaceful.
Hemu
2. The Most Efficient Itinerary (Based on My Own Trip)
Here’s the exact route I took, optimized for winter weather, transportation, and daylight hours.
Day 1: Arrive in Altay → Check in at Altay City Hotel
Flights from different cities arrive in Altay during the day.
The airport is close to downtown; it’s easy to settle in, rest, and prepare for heading into the mountains the next day.
Day 2: Altay → Hemu Village (Stay Overnight in Hemu Old Village)
It’s about a 3.5-hour drive from Altay to Hemu.
⚠️ Do NOT self-drive in winter.
Snowy roads in Altay are nothing like regular highways—ice and long slopes make driving risky. Shared cars are very common, and almost every guesthouse or café can help you book one.
Hemu Old Village is the ideal place to stay. Wake up to wooden cabins, snow-covered rooftops, and morning mist drifting through birch trees.
📸 Must-take photos:
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On Hemu Bridge with the river reflection
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Backlit shots in the birch forest (white dresses look amazing)
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A night sky long-exposure on a tripod
Hemu in winter is livelier than Kanas because many visitors come here to ski. Food options are better too, and cafés are warm and cozy.
Day 3: A Slow Morning in Hemu → Drive to Kanas → Three Bays & One Lake → Stay in Kanas Old Village
Sleep in, have coffee in one of the wooden-cabin cafés, and enjoy a peaceful morning before heading to Kanas.
⚠️ Very important:
Kanas has NO shuttle buses in winter.
You must use shared or chartered cars.
And whatever you do—
❌ don’t stay in Jiadengyu.
It’s too far from the scenic area once buses stop running in winter.
✔️ Stay in Kanas Old Village instead.
You can finish “Three Bays & One Lake” in half a day:
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Fairy Bay: sometimes misty, always quiet
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Moon Bay: the iconic S-curve view
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Dragon Bay: closest access to the lake shore
The lake cruise is closed in winter, but the scenery is still breathtaking.
Kanas Old Village is peaceful in winter. Fewer shops are open, so bring snacks.
hemu
Day 4: Kanas → Baihaba → Lonely Tree → China-Kazakhstan Grand Canyon → Return to Altay
This is one of the most visually rewarding days.
As you drive toward Baihaba, scenery unfolds non-stop:
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The Lonely Tree standing resilient in pure white snow
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The China-Kazakhstan Grand Canyon with dramatic frozen textures
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Baihaba sunset painting the whole wooden village gold
⚠️ Important:
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You MUST have a border pass.
Many guesthouses can help you apply, or you can get one at your residence city. -
The Fish-Watching Platform (Guan Yutai) is closed from late November.
No hiking or horseback access.
Back in Altay City, add these two light activities:
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Altay Museum — small and easy to finish within 1–1.5 hrs
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Altay Corner Shop — a cute riverside store selling aesthetic souvenirs (especially fridge magnets). There’s also a great café next door.
Day 5: General Mountain Ski Resort → Airport
General Mountain Ski Resort is extremely close to downtown and perfect for beginners.
I went during a free-ticket period and the slopes were filled with students, but the vibe was fun and energetic. Altay is known as the “origin of human skiing,” and locals take skiing seriously.
A few important notes:
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It’s very hard to get a taxi after skiing. Try sharing a ride when possible.
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Many hotels offer free shuttles to and from the ski resort—ask when booking.
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Beginner slopes can be crowded—take your time and stay patient.
General Mountain
3. What to Wear in Winter Altay
Indoor heating is strong, so you’ll constantly switch between warm and freezing environments.
❄️ Outdoor essentials:
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Thick down jacket
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Thermal pants
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Snow boots
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Gloves + hat + scarf
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Hand warmers (bring plenty)
☀️ Indoor:
A T-shirt is enough.
📸 For photos, pack outfits in advance—local options are limited and more expensive.
4. Transportation Tips You Absolutely Need
Can I self-drive?
Not recommended at all.
Roads are icy, visibility may drop quickly, and local drivers know the terrain better.
Is shared transport safe?
It’s the standard option in winter.
However, some drivers do use phones while driving, so always allow more buffer time, especially when catching a flight or train.
Is there a shuttle bus?
❌ Scenic-area buses are suspended in winter.
That’s why staying in the correct village is crucial.
5. Food & Accommodation (All Tested and Good)
Hemu:
Best atmosphere, many cafés, great for photos.
Kanas:
Quiet in winter, limited dining—prepare snacks.
Altay City:
The following places were all great:
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Bowa Small Pot Rice (伯瓦木小锅抓饭)
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Black Mushroom Fast Food
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Returning Nest Café
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Zhengfei Fresh Milk
No disappointments at all.
General Mountain
6. Important Winter Altay Warnings (Read Before You Go)
⚠️ The Fish-Watching Platform is closed in winter.
⚠️ Scenic-area snacks are overpriced—bring your own.
⚠️ Some border-related infrastructure cannot be photographed. Follow instructions.
⚠️ Don’t wander onto unmarked trails—snow can hide hazards.
⚠️ Border pass is required for Baihaba.
⚠️ Weather can change suddenly—keep your schedule flexible.
7. Optional Reference Itinerary
If you prefer a ready-made, well-designed route, you can check this trip that covers all major winter highlights:
Frozen: A 10-Day Journey to Almaty, Northern Xinjiang
8. Final Thoughts: Altay Feels Like a Winter Movie
Everywhere you go in Altay looks like a scene from a romance film:
Hemu in morning fog, Kanas in icy blue, Baihaba at sunset…
Even if you travel solo, you’ll feel the warm, dreamy atmosphere.
If you’re looking for a place to unwind, take beautiful photos, get close to nature, and feel a pure winter—
Altay is the answer.
