S21 Desert Highway Self-Drive Guide | Urumqi to Altay Road Trip

If there’s one road in northern Xinjiang worth going out of your way for, it’s the S21 Desert Highway. Many travelers fly directly to Altay, but those who really want the full experience choose to drive from Urumqi, cutting across the desert.

This route is more than just transportation—it’s a journey through some of the most dramatic landscapes in Xinjiang.

S21 Desert Highway

1. Route Overview & Travel Pace

The S21 Desert Highway (also known as the Awu Expressway) connects Urumqi to Altay, stretching about 342 km through the Gurbantunggut Desert, the second-largest desert in China.

Recommended Route:

Start: Urumqi
Stops: Service areas + photo points + desert experience
Optional detour: Ulungur Lake
Overnight: Burqin or continue to Altay

Driving Time:

Direct: 4.5–5 hours
With stops: 7–9 hours (recommended)

Best Departure Time:

Around 10:00–11:00 AM for optimal lighting and comfort

2. Service Areas & Refueling

There aren’t many service areas, but they’re sufficient if planned properly.

1️⃣ Shiqiu (Sand Dune) Service Area

Good for a quick stop (10 minutes)
Features a route map to help plan your journey

2️⃣ Kelamaili Service Area (Must Stop)

This is the highlight stop along the highway.

Highlights:

Walk straight into the desert from the parking area
Camel rides and off-road desert experiences
Iconic road signs perfect for photos

Tips:

Strong UV exposure—bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat
Watch out for insects in the الرمال (sand areas)
Wear closed shoes for safety

This stop feels like the official “entry point” into the desert experience.

3️⃣ Huanghuagou Service Area (Optional)

Limited facilities
Charging stations may be unreliable
Can skip if short on time

S21 Desert Highway

3. Best Photo Spots (In Order)

1️⃣ Kelamaili Desert Section

Smooth sand dunes and flowing lines
Great for portraits and road shots
Best light: early afternoon

2️⃣ Yardang Landforms

About one hour after leaving Kelamaili.

Features:

Pink tones from afar, orange hues up close
Unique layered formations

Photography Tips:

Shoot from inside the car for cinematic shots
Even better during sunset

3️⃣ Ulungur Lake (Highly Recommended Detour)

This is the biggest surprise along the trip.

Why Go:

A deep blue lake suddenly appears in the desert
The contrast is stunning—like a sapphire in the الرمال

How to Visit:

No need to enter a scenic area
Drive along the lakeside road
Find a dirt path and drive onto the Gobi for photos
Sunset is the best time

Standing by the lake, you’ll understand why Xinjiang leaves such a strong impression on travelers.

4️⃣ Burqin (Overnight Stop)

A charming town and gateway to Kanas and Hemu.

Vibe:

European-style small town feel
Long blue-hour evenings (sunset around 10 PM in summer)

Things to Do:

Walk along the river
Visit the iconic bridge
Try local cold-water fish (especially dogfish and “Wudaohei”)

Spending a night here is highly recommended for a more relaxed pace.

4. EV Charging Guide (Important)

If you’re driving an electric vehicle, planning is key.

Charging Strategy:

103 Regiment Service Area
- Price: ~1.6 RMB/kWh
- Stable charging, good first stop
Kelamaili Service Area
- Often crowded
- Not ideal for long waits
Fuhai County Stations
- Lower price (~0.9 RMB/kWh)
- Convenient detour
Beitun Charging Stations
- Cheapest (~0.8 RMB/kWh)
- Slightly remote, better during daytime